Perfect Day at the Poor Knights marine reserve

Two of my offspring raved about their trips to the marine reserve off the Poor Knights islands. Expectations were high as we boarded the tour boat named Perfect Day.

Skipper Luke welcomed us aboard at the marina in Tutukaka, delivering the funniest safety briefing I have ever heard – so clever that I can still tell you exactly how the life-jacket goes on (both sides labelled “front”). It was somewhat less amusing when, within minutes, we were thumping through the four-five metre swell. Usually the first to become sea-sick, I did myself proud, eyes fixed on the horizon, gulping in the fresh air and moving with the boat’s rise-and-crash-rise-and-crash for the one hour “cruise”.

The crashing stopped when we pulled into a bay beside one of the islands of the Poor Knights group.

The descriptions I had heard of the super-clear water were not exaggerated. This image, taken from the top floor of Perfect Day when we anchored in the bay , shows kelp and the sea floor five to six metres below the surface. 

The crew helped us into wetsuits and issued fins, masks and snorkels, so that we could jump in off the back of the boat and discover the secrets of the reserve for ourselves. Getting up close and personal with a school of electric blue fish and following a large snapper just below us was magic. Because no-one is allowed to catch fish in the reserve, the fish are plentiful and fairly tame.

Clever tourists successfully paddle-boarded around the bay (paddle boards also provided by Perfect Day). For me, a circuit in one of the tandem kayaks did the trick.

Suddenly, my perfect half-day was over. The rocking of the boat at anchor caught me off guard – and that’s where the series of paper bags came into the story. Iggy took over the photography for this blog post at this point, while I felt like I was going to die – then began to wish I would. Iggy labelled this flattering picture of me “Crook as a crab”.

Anchor up, the boat ventured in through quite a narrow opening to end up inside the nearby Rikoriko Cave, the world’s largest sea-cave. Through the railings, I managed a glimpse of its beautiful colours.

Commentary about the islands followed the visit to the sea-cave. When you see an image like this, you realise that for most of the passengers, it really was a perfect day.

 

Opera in the Garden with Opera North

The weekend chosen for the International Fellowship of Flying Rotarians gathering at Tutukaka, Northland, was predicated around the annual Opera in the Garden concert by Opera North.
Established by Joan and Richard Kennaway, the company was formed to showcase the talents of Northland singers, giving them an audience for opera, classical and musical theatre. It is a testimony to the standard of Opera North that twelve former Opera North singers are studying music at universities around New Zealand and one is at Guildhall College in London.

The Flying Rotarians were privileged to have front-row seating.

The first part of the programme featured familiar opera music, including the Toreador Song from Bizet’s Carmen, Brindisi from Verdi’s La Traviata, and the Papagena Duet from Mozart’s The Magic Flute.

The women’s gowns, in a palette of paua colours were gorgeous. The musical talent was breathtaking.

The star who took the concert to a whole new level was Kawiti Waetford, a former Opera North singer who is in his final semester of a Bachelor of Music degree, making a return to knock the socks off his Northland supporters. HIs versatility and dramatic ability was captivating as he played every role from the rogue to the nobleman. Kawiti’s achievements and potential have been recognised by the Dame Kiri Te Kanawa Foundation – well-deserved.

Interval gave us the opportunity to refresh our glasses and absorb the vibrant and convivial atmosphere.

The second part of the programme featured music from the shows – Kiss Me Kate, Mary Poppins, The Merry Widow, Gigi, Les Miserables, Oliver, Guys and Dolls and Fiddler on the Roof (which, for me, will forever go by the name given to the show by my hard-of-hearing father – Tiddly on the Roof).

Susan Alves as the wife of the Master of the House was wicked!

Kawiti Waetford singing with his teacher and mentor Joan Kennaway filled us with tears and brought us to our feet. As he helped Joan down the steps to her conductor’s podium someone around me said “What a gentleman”. What a guy, what a performer!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Whangarei Quayside Town Basin

Our International Fellowship of Flying Rotarians tour bus dropped us off by the marina in Whangarei to pick up a cafe lunch.

The cute shop fronts were reminiscent of the shopping areas at Brisbane’s South Bank.

It was the perfect opportunity to boost the struggling Northland economy – new Aussie style hats for Iggy and me and stunning new swimming togs for me. It was a good thing I didn’t have my glasses on when I checked the price label, as they were not the bargain that my blurred vision would have had me believe. But wow – the first pair of togs off the rack and a flattering fit. Worth ignoring the price tag on these.

I loved the clothes hooks in the swimwear shop changing rooms. The doors of the changing rooms were painted like the old-fashioned bathhouses they used to have at the English seaside. Stunning!

I am suffering from abstainers’ remorse over failing to buy  some of this Brian Gartside pottery, on sale at the art shop at the Quayside. I love the rich colour combinations.

This contemporary pot would have made a statement on my sideboard, too.

The entrance to our home is not big enough for this magnificent chair made from centuries old swamp kauri.

Apparently, yachts come down from the islands to shelter at Quayside during the cyclone season. The covered walkway, fishing boats and yachts contributed to the peaceful environment.

We ran out of time to look through Claphams Clock Museum…

…but enjoyed the ubiquitous seagull…

… and the international combination of imported sparrows playing in a native nikau tree.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Whangarei tour

A brisk constitutional up 53 steps to a look out on the Tutukaka coastline was the first activity on our International Fellowship of Flying Rotarians weekend in Northland.

From the top, we looked back at the beach on one side …

…and coastline on the other.

 

Our host Lance told us about the dry stone walls which stretch for kilometres along the roadside and across farmland on the road between Whangarei and Tutukaka. Apparently the walls were built by Dalmatian settlers around 150 years ago. The purpose was two-fold – to clear farmland of volcanic stone so that it could be used for pasture and to create fields for the animals. Other settlers made life hard for the Dalmations as they did not like the way the Dalmations worked too hard!

 

Our next stopover, on the outskirts of Whangarei and only a few minutes easy walk from the carpark were the Whangarei Falls.

 

The coach then took us to a lookout from where we looked down on Whangarei city …

… and back over the parched Northland countryside. Dry dust filled the air, so the area lacked its usual clear visibility.

 

 

 

Flying Rotarians visit Oceans Resort, Tutukaka

Iggy is a member of the New Zealand chapter of an Rotary group – the International Fellowship of Flying Rotarians. New Zealand members and their partners gather at a different part of our country annually, usually joined by other Flying Rotarians from overseas. Whatever the official aims of the group, it seems to me that the purpose is for everyone to enjoy a new location, the pilots to share flying stories (with hands constantly on the go as they indicate an aircraft’s pitch and yaw on particularly memorable flights), and the partners to have a social time, with a bit of shopping thrown in.

This year Lance and Darcey hosted us in their home town of Tutukaka, located on spectacular coastline about half an hour’s drive out of Whangarei. Over the next few posts, I will feature some of the highlights of our weekend away – Whangarei Falls, views from the Whangarei lookout, the Quayside Town Basin, Opera in the Garden and a perfect day (well – half a perfect day, in my case, as for the second part of the perfect day I was fully preoccupied with sea sickness) on the boat Perfect Day which took us out snorkelling and kayaking off the Poor Knights Islands.

Travel is best when locals are the hosts. I have visited Tutukaka several times before, but it was Lance and Darcey’s local knowledge, detailed planning and flawless hosting (assisted by the drought-inducing constant sunshine) which made for the perfect weekend.

Let’s start with the accommodation, Oceans Resort Hotel.

Oceans Resort Hotel in the early evening.

First impression – luxury. We had a huge bedroom with a king-sized bed and tasteful prints on the walls. The lucky ones scored a room with a harbour view. We got the carpark view, but no complaints as we had a busy weekend planned for us, with little time to spend gazing out the window (and as we woke up each morning we could check the trusty old Corolla was still happy parked among the Mercs).

Two of the evening meals were in the hotel’s dining room – simply elegant. The table decorations consisted of a large glass vases holding a ball-shaped turquoise candle and swathed in turquoise gauzy fabric – colours of the Tutukaka sea. The next night, there were fresh hibiscus in the vases – tropical delight.

A downside of eating away from home is that all the good work on weight control can be challenged. However, Oceans Resort fare was beautifully presented, fresh and nutritious. Any damage done was purely the result of my own self-indulgence. Friday night’s schnapper was melt-in-the-mouth and the Saturday night buffet of beef (two dishes – one for those who like their beef rare and one for those who like it over-cooked – a nice touch there) served with an excellent choice of vegetables was appreciated.

Many of our party commented on the wait staff – universally pleasant and helpful without being intrusive and easy on the eye in their smart turquoise T shirts.

We started each day by getting together for continental breakfast – high quality bread, too (I always appreciate that). Cooked breakfast is also available.

On our way back to our rooms we noticed another convention room on the second level of the hotel. It would be the perfect place for a business meeting or a small wedding – simple, elegant, no bar, no TV screens and a balcony overlooking the marina. It would be hard to find a more peaceful or romantic setting.

The marina – literally a couple of minutes’ walk from Oceans Resort Hotel.

 

 

 

The Passing Red debate

Gaye Jurisich’s Passing Red.

In 2008, Hamilton City Council looked to local artist Gaye Jurisich to deal to the eyesore that was created when established trees were butchered to create a space to be used annually for Hamilton’s misguided and debt-producing foray into V8 car racing. The sculpture was required to cover a huge footprint, while being easily taken apart so the area could be used annually for the V8 pits. It must have been a challenging brief.

When Passing Red was installed, it attracted the kind of invective that said more about the ignorance of those commentating than about the sculpture. A couple of weeks ago a driver crashed into Passing Red, badly damaging himself, his vehicle and the sculpture, with one end of it now being potentially too costly to repair. The Waikato Times saw fit to publish another rush of hate mail, with some correspondents indicating that they thought the accidental demolition of part of the sculpture was good news. This was followed by the more measured suggestion that, with the V8s event now onsold to that more appropriate location – the City of Cars up the road – Passing Red could be relocated in a park where people could interact more readily than they can in its current site on a busy street.

Local art commentator Peter Dornauf hit the print media with an opinion piece, lambasting the Passing Red critics, labelling them and nearly everyone else who lives in Hamilton as Philistines. Journalist Denise Irvine, usually easy-going, responded strongly, saying that attendance at the recent Hamilton Gardens Arts Festival proved that “Hamiltonians aren’t yokels and bogans”. “We may not all be card-carrying members of the city’s literati but we love, celebrate and support this place in all its colours and idiosyncrasies,” she says.

Gaye Jurisich herself has remained quiet. Perhaps she has decided not to dignify her most vicious critics with a response. In his book “How to look at a Painting”, Justin Paton offers a definition of art – that it should provoke discussion. On this basis, Gaye Jurisich’s Passing Red meets the criteria. Or does it? With the exception of Denise Irvine’s article, the artistic qualities of the piece have barely rated a mention. The focus has been on vitriole rather than  consideration of form, colour, line, texture and shape – a starting point from which to consider the artist’s meaning.

“Public art and public debate are inextricably linked,” says Denise Irvine. It would be good to hear more from those who value creativity and imagination – which by its very nature cannot please everyone.

Waikato drought

Our memories of the New Zealand summer are of day after day of baking  in the glorious sun. After such a non-event summer last year, our spirits were uplifted when there were forecasts of a real Kiwi summer this year – and it is joyful to wake to blue skies on a warm morning. However, the effects of the long dry are now affecting every one of us – hand-held hoses only for watering the garden and the threat of expensive produce in the year ahead as production costs soar with the extreme summer temperatures. It is years since we have seen such sun-bleached landscape, with plants going to seed and turning brown ahead of autumn. Yesterday there was 1mm of drizzle – the first “rain” in many weeks. Farmers report that they need 150 times this much rain over a seven day period to regenerate their pastures.